Sunday, November 7, 2010

Hiroshima and Miyajima

We headed out today to see Hiroshima and we somehow made it there! The Peace Memorial Museum was really interesting, and a little gruesome for little ones, but as I told them, it’s nothing more than fact. There were all kinds of things that were left after the blast including a watch that was stopped at the exact time of impact (8:15 am),



roof tiles that were melted by the heat of the blast, and a young boy’s metal lunch pail with the contents charred. There was also a diorama that showed the city pre-bomb and post-bomb. Very little was left, obviously, post-bomb but a few half-standing buildings and some burned out trees.





After touring the museum, we went outside to the park which is an open area with a prayer site, eternal flame, children’s memorial statue and gardens.








This picture was made out of origami cranes.

Chains of 1,000 origami chains are made for peace.  We've seen this at other war memorials too.

The park led you to the Atom Bomb Dome, one of the few buildings left partially standing after the bombing. The Atom Bomb Dome sits very close to the “hypocenter” of the bombing.




These Japanese girls (in typical dress!) wanted their picture with the kids.  London wouldn't partake!

After visiting this very somber and sobering place, we headed back toward Iwakuni but first stopped at the Ferry Port to catch a ferry to Miyajima. Miyajima is an island just off the coast that is known as the island of shrines.


On the ferry over.

There are oodles of shrines on this one island including a Unesco World Heritage Site.






I really liked this island – it might have been because of the beautiful fall weather and foliage, or the lack of cars, or the deer walking all around, or the quaint shops, but it all added up to a really awesome place. When you get off the ferry, you start walking down this little street full of food vendors, craft shops and souvenir shops.



The specialty items on this island are grilled oysters that are harvested fresh from the waters, fish cakes, hot beef buns



and these little filled cakes in the shape of maple leaves. Every other shop on the street was a bakery making these scrumptious confections. The main flavor of filling is bean paste, but the kids tried chocolate and apple filled ones too. Yummy!




This beautiful garden was at the back of one of the bakeries.
As you wonder the streets you see deer everywhere - really, really tame deer.


Deer, rickshaw, driver on cell phone...

Apparently in the Shinto religion the deer is holy so they let them be and consequently they are everywhere. And despite signs saying that you are not to feed or pet the deer, they are tame and realize when you have maple leaf cookies on you! We had just bought a box and a rather large male deer decided he wanted them. He bit my coat and wouldn’t let go!




At the far end of the shopping district were some of the temples and shrines on the island, including the famous “floating Torii”. It’s not really floating, just anchored in the bay which looks like it’s floating at high tide. It was such a beautiful setting.








Emmy with her deer toy with a deer




And I can now report that I saw a real Geisha walking down the street and going into the biggest temple! I was behind her so my pictures were all rapidly snapped from behind as she shuffled along, but that was probably for the best as I would have been more hesitant to take her picture from the front. How fortunate!





After our short ferry ride back to the mainland we returned to the hotel long enough for a stretch out before heading back out to try to find a funky little restaurant I had read about. I know, what was I thinking driving 3 kids out on these dark, twisty roads up the side of a mountain at 7:30 for dinner? But despite my doubts while driving there, it turned out to be well worth the effort! The restaurant is known to the Americans as the “Chicken Shack” and it was a classic. Up the side of some mountain, it was lit up like a mini Christmas village/Japanese castle. Really. There were these giant sculptures made out of Japanese lanterns



and equally giant billboards of Santa and Frosty, and other eclectic decorations.







The restaurant complex.

You had to order your food at this restaurant by marking your request on a piece of paper and taking it up to a window to pay. That would have been all fine and good, except that it was all in Japanese! Thank goodness for pictures and guessing!



Our order form - 3 chickens and 2 rice balls, I think...

The seating for the restaurant was a mix of low tables all outdoors and sort of set back into the trees. I thought we might have a problem with that since it was in the upper 50s, but those Japanese think of everything! Sitting at the table, you tucked your legs under a comforter that doubled as the table cloth and – ta da! – under the table was your own private space heater! Brilliant! Not safe, but brilliant! The kids were content to sit all night with their legs and feet all toasty warm.





For those who wanted to grill their own - tables with open grills.  Best not to seat the kids here!

Then the dinner came – chicken on a stick, literally, and giant onigiri (rice ball). The kids decided they would like to come back to Iwakuni just for the Chicken Shack!



Saturday, November 6, 2010

Our Next Adventure

Friday, 4:45 pm
I’ve decided that grass doesn’t grow under my feet.  Either that or I’m a glutten for
punishment.  So I’m 2 hours into trying to take a Space A flight to mainland Japan (Atsugi) with 3 kids (we’re still in the terminal – been called for seats and then told it’s only temporary as the plane is not actually here yet…)  Wish me luck – or at least pray for my sanity!
Friday, 5:45 pm
Just called to the desk for a “briefing”, told the plane has not arrived, not sure when or if it will arrive How can this be?  We do not live in the Bermuda Triangle; planes just don’t disappear?  I’ve decided we’ll try for a flight to Iwakuni tomorrow morning.
Saturday, 5:45 am
Checked in and waiting for “Roll Call” to see if we get on the flight.
Saturday, 6:45 am
We’re on!  Luggage checked and plane is here (not missing in mid-air like last night’s!).
Saturday, 7:45 am
Waiting…

Saturday, 8:45 am
Waiting…
Saturday, 9:45 am

Wheels up!


Saturday, 11:00 am
Landed in Iwakuni! 



Signed up to return to Okinawa then caught a shuttle to the hotel on base, then to the rental company to pick up our ride.  They gave us a brand new, sparkling Toyota Voxy, which normally would not wow me except that I’ve been driving a 1996 beat up mini-van for the past 16 months so a new ride is alright!  We have named it the Foxy Voxy (London has a stuffed animal called Foxy Loxy which is where the name came from).

We headed out to see the sights of Iwakuni today.  There is a famous bridge here called the Kintai bridge which was originally built in 1673 with a revolutionary design built to withstand flooding. 




The under side of the bridge.


It worked great until 1950 when a typhoon hit and washed the whole thing away.  How sad.  But the towns people rallied and rebuilt the bridge in two years and it’s as good as new now.  You can walk across the bridge and then through an historical area where samurai used to live. 






There was also this gorgeous, peaceful park there, Kikko park, with lots of fountains and fall foliage.  To you reading this, that may be nothing much, but to us who have not seen a changing leaf in two years, it’s huge!  I  actually saw a beautiful Japanese maple – in Japan!  This area is surrounded by beautiful mountains and the city itself is not that big so it leaves you with a nice feel.  It is much more “Japanese” than Okinawa is – we see it in the housing styles, cars, and people.  






After meandering through the park, we ended up at the snake “museum” – really just a building with one big glass cage with a few snakes in it.  But these are white snakes (not the band from the ‘80s) which are found only in Iwakuni City and nowhere else in the world.  People consider them to be messengers of a godess of good luck so they come here to pray to them. 

Then we headed up the mountain in a cable car (good job Stevie wasn’t with us!) 



The cable car deposited us on top of the mountain where we could then walk to Iwakuni Castle.  This was a beautiful building with a stunning view of the surrounding valley and water.  There are lots of trails and hikes through this beautiful area which would be great to do if we had more time.


Iwakuni Castle

A samurai suit from inside the castle.  I'd run and hide if I ever saw this coming at me!


View from the top




Beautiful scenery